Les Amants (1958): Jeanne Between Paris and the Provinces

Jeanne Tournier lives in la campagne but prefers Paris. She escapes to the capital at every opportunity, staying with her friend Maggy. Henri, Jeanne’s husband, doesn’t appreciate her; he hasn’t for years. Henri senses that his wife is slipping away and attempts to shower her with affection. His efforts are inauthentic and too late. Jeanne is a woman who needs to be loved, and Henri is no longer son amant.

Works Sighted

dress // nightgown // robe // sweater // scarf // skirt

heels // hair comb // alarm clock // necklace // flats // flats

Airbnb Parisian Flea Market Experience

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is the biggest and best flea market I’ve ever visited. It’s located to the north, just outside of Paris. I took metro line 4 and disembarked at Porte de Clignancourt, meeting my guide and the other four members of our group just above ground. Mariana Diamantino, host of Parisian Flea Market Experience, is an expert at uncovering vintage finds. Initially, I’d considered exploring the market on my own, but I later realized that would have been a mistake.

Although my French is good enough to garner compliments, being accompanied by a French speaker was essential in this instance. Mariana was able to negotiate prices on my behalf; I’m not skilled at doing this in English, so I don’t think I’d be successful at it in French.

I don’t usually strike gold on thrifting trips, but I did on this occasion. Our last stop was what Mariana fondly calls the “down and dirty.” This is where the best bargains are found. Acquiring them requires searching through piles of clothes and boxes of accessories. I uncovered a navy trench coat and two sweaters at a stall. Actually, Mariana may have spotted the trench coat.

The vendor asked for 35€ for all three items, but Mariana was able to negotiate the amount I was able to pay, which was about 32€. Like most vendors, he didn’t accept credit card. Not only was I glad to have Mariana by my side to negotiate but also as a friend when the conversation with the vendor turned a little inappropriate. Some things were said in reference to all Americans supposedly being rich. I learned afterward that it is common for vendors to hike their prices for US visitors.

I highly recommend Mariana’s experience. Other tips: bring cash and a lightweight, foldable tote, secure your belongings, let any negative comments roll off your shoulders, and don’t engage with the men selling cigarettes by the Porte de Clignancourt metro stop or AirPods under the Périph.

Shopping for Basics at Monoprix

I really love shopping for classic pieces at Monoprix. They carry my size and have reasonable prices. I pick out my items online first and then search for them at a brick-and-mortar location. The hunt often takes me to a few branches of the retail chain. Here are all the items I’ve been fawning over lately.

Works Sighted

sweater // trench coat // puffer jacket

T-shirt // handbag // marinière

pants // ballet flats // gym bag

La Pointe Courte (1955): Elle in Sète

Elle was born in Paris and prefers city life over the quiet existence of the countryside. When her husband travels to his hometown of Sète in southeast France, she follows by train a few days later. Elle has a lot of time to reflect on their four-year marriage, and when she reunites with Lui, she’s ready to discuss it. Over the next few days, they talk about the meaning of love and the possibility of discontinuing their relationship. The passing of time is signaled by Elle’s changing outfits; her clothes are more sophisticated than those worn by the residents of the coastal town. A conclusion regarding the marriage is reached after several cinematic strolls by the water.

Works Sighted

clothesline // clothespins // top // sweater // kitchen towels

marinière // skirt // scarf // dress

baskets // shoes // suitcase // espadrilles

Discovering New Shoe Brands at Galeries Lafayette

On one of several walks through the shoe department of Galeries Lafayette, I realized the store was a likely place to discover new brands—brands that were new to me, not necessarily ones that were new to the market. Ultimately, I decided that browsing the shoe selection online would be more efficient. Thus, I set out to round up six styles that represent companies I hadn’t heard of before arriving in Paris. (Although, I may have heard of Jonak before now; I can’t remember.)

Works Sighted

Victoria // Many (but not all) of the sneakers are tastefully emblazoned with the letter V; not to be confused with Veja. victoriachaussures.com

Rivecour // Shoes that are classic, elegant, and walkable. rivecour.com

AGL // A third-generation Italian brand run by three sisters; shoes with character and platforms. agl.com

Jonak // Classic, versatile shoes at a reasonable price point. jonak.fr

Clae // Minimalistic sneakers made from organic and recycled materials. clae.eu

Free Lance // High heels of varying heights. freelance.fr

Shoe Shopping at Chanel: What to Expect

If I’ve entered a Chanel store in the past, it has never been with the intention of buying something…at least not until now. I recently visited two Chanel locations in Paris, 31 rue Cambon and 51 avenue Montaigne. My purchase took place at the latter. The fashion advisors who assisted me at both stores were welcoming, excellent conversationalists (we spoke in French), and made my experience memorable. I was also showered in bouquets of white roses for International Women’s Day, which opened beautifully when I placed them in a vase at home. Someone left a bouquet of tulips from Ferragamo behind, so I added those to my collection. Thus, I concluded March 8 with my first Chanel item and three bouquets of flowers. Here’s what to expect on your initial visit to a Chanel location in Paris.

  • Someone will ask you what item(s) you are shopping for the moment you enter the store (after the bonjours and bienvenues of course). It’s a good idea to have an answer prepared. I’d planned to buy a pair of classic ballerines in black and even went so far as to try them on for size at Bergdorf Goodman beforehand.
  • When you arrive, you’ll be put into a queue. At Cambon, I was asked to wait for a fashion advisor in the shoe department on a cushioned bench; one became available within 30 minutes. At Montaigne, I waited at least 90 minutes for an advisor and went to Dior and Ladurée in the interim. I opted to receive a notification via text message when it was my turn. You may schedule an appointment in advance online provided there is availability.
  • You will be offered a drink at the beginning of your shopping session and may choose from either still water, sparkling water, juice, or Champagne. At Cambon, I settled on a bottle of Evian. I asked for Champagne at Montaigne but they’d run out by then; I was there past closing time after all. Also, chocolate wafers from Angelina appeared along with Evian at Montaigne; I’m not sure if they are a staple among Chanel’s refreshments or if they were for International Women’s Day like the roses. If you know, comment below.
  • Everything isn’t on display. Just because something isn’t visible doesn’t mean it’s out of stock. I learned this on a walk around the shoe department with my style advisor at Cambon. To my amazement, she pushed aside several sliding mirrors to reveal shelves upon shelves of shoes not otherwise visible.
  • The display shoes have a price sticker on the bottom. I deduced that the ballet flats I tried on at Cambon had been on display (at some point) from the price sticker on the bottom. They were the last pair at that location.
  • The advisors wear all black. This makes them easy to spot on the sales floor. However, you shouldn’t need to go searching for anyone; your advisor stays with you the whole time.
  • Your advisor will need your passport to prepare the paperwork that will allow you to receive your VAT (value-added tax) back. Please note: it is not advisable to wear the purchases from which you plan to receive VAT on the flight home. In case of inspection, they should look like purchases. Place them in your carry-on.

Works Sighted

Meridame II (navy/ecru stripes) // J.Crew Martie pant (black) // Chanel classic ballerines (black)